Published in Sport Diver, November 1998

The Jewfish is big. So big, I figure it can’t fit between the door hatch of Thunderbolt’s aft compartment where, apparently, the mega-grouper converted this former research vessel into a private, waterlogged garage for its Volkswagen-sized body.

Outdoors, a 600-to-700 pound playmate hovers like the Goodyear Blimp between the 188-foot long ship and liquid infinity. Thousands of silversides pulsate around the Jewfish (which are protected in Florida waters) sparking silver, white and gold flashes that are probably similar to the lightning bolts Florida Power and Light scientists studied aboard Thunderbolt ‘til it became an artificial reef in March, 1986.

As Florida Keys shipwreck dives go, this 110-foot plunge into aquatic space ranks somewhere between Key Largo’s immensely popular, Duane and Bibb dives, and Key West’s world-class, Wilkes Barre dive.

Fact is, the island off which Thunderbolt sits is a ‘tweener, too. Marathon is smack dab in the middle of the 150-mile chain that extends south-southwest from Miami, and Fantasea Divers, a shop that caters to Thunderbolt’s giant groupers, is located pretty much in the middle of Marathon.

“There’s much to be said for dive-life at the center,” said Mark Padover, who manages the dive shop with his wife, Candace. “Divers flock to the extremes, which means there’s less impact on the reef here: Coral’s in better shape, and we have more marinelife to see on a reef that’s only four miles offshore.”
Fantasea’s full-service dive business even has a satellite run by its owners, Stephen and Susan Ralli, at nearby Buccaneer Resort. This is where Captain Terry Hiles reigns in Fantasea, the shop’s 30-foot Island Hopper, to pick up two more divers: “We have special overnight dive packages with Buccaneer, and for diver certification, we do all our pool work here, right next to the dive shop,” said Captain T. “You’ll note the resort bar is conveniently located on top of the dive shop, and it’s a real gathering place after the day’s dives.”

A couple from Tampa hops aboard. Marcus, a PADI dive instructor says they’re diving with Fantasea all week because the dive shop “works with us to take in the kind of dives we’re looking for.”

A strong wind topside is bested by a raging current downunder. After a 10-minute, hand-over-hand body drag down the line to -- get this -- the 20-foot level, we consider aborting the dive. Recalling Divemaster Dave’s pre-dive promise that the current subsides at 40 feet, I vote thumbs down with the others. But at 40 feet, the current almost rips my mask off...twice. Of course, by now the die’s cast, and well, because we have to go through all that surface crap again, we might just as well have some quality dive time in between.

We’re awash in quality when the Goodyear Blimp materializes like an apparition off the foredeck bow. The Volkswagen parked aft exceeds all wildlife Fantaseas, and in spite of the descent’s degree of difficulty, Thunderbolt is diver-friendly: All cargo hatches, doors and windows are removed, and divers may penetrate the wreck through most decks.

For dive package details, call 800-223-4563 or 888-2-DIVE FL.

By Barbara Bowers, © 1998